Since we started production
in 1996, we have been very fortunate in being able to realize
many dreams. The Sta. Rita Hills appellation has developed
into a truly phenomenal appellation with Chardonnay and Pinot
Noir that rival any in the world.
Our good fortune was highlighted in 2005
by the opportunity to nurture and receive 100% of the fruit
from the vines planted at Mount Carmel, located in the heart
of our appellation. This afforded us the opportunity to assemble
what, in our opinion, is a premier team of grower associates
lead by Francisco Ramirez, with soil
consultation from Stan Kadota.
Francisco Ramirez
Francisco
has a long connection with the land and farming. His family
farmed mangoes in his native Mexico and from this early experience
he began his bond with the earth and elements. Here in the
Lompoc Valley, he first grew commercial flowers before joining
Melville Vineyards and immersing himself in winegrowing in
1997. Francisco and his team care for five vineyards, and
consult with our contracted vineyards. You can feel Francisco’s
joy as you read his approach to farming and overseeing our
farming efforts throughout the Sta. Rita Hills.
Every year is different and so we must adapt
our farming and care for the vines to each growing season.
This is a happy challenge, because once you know your vines,
you know how to react. This is the most important aspect to
growing high quality wine grapes; knowing your vines. Even
though they may be planted in similar places, with the same
rootstock and clone – there is a difference. Knowing
them well and their unique differences allows us to give them
just the right amount of attention, whether it is in pruning
and trellising, leafing or nutritional supplements.
In many ways, they are like people. Some
are stronger and can carry more fruit. Some are challenged
by wind or high mineral content in the soil and must carry
a lighter crop load. And like people, in order to be healthy
and able to do their work well, they must be fed, so we take
very good care of the soil and provide organic food through
the drip system. This replenishes the roots and brings health
and energy to the shoots and leaves.
We must work with the elements – the
cool temperatures, wind and fog in the Sta. Rita Hills –
and ensure that the clusters get enough sun to ripen perfectly.
We leaf aggressively, but using a test block to determine
that perfect time to perform this critical function –
at the point where the young berries do not get sunburned
and early enough so that they are always used to the afternoon
sun.
At Brewer-Clifton, our farming philosophy
is based on balance; healthy vines, grapes with equilibrium
of sugar, acid, tannin and flavor, ripe seeds and stems without
dehydration in the clusters, the correct crop load for each
vine and enough to sustain a living from the land with the
highest possible quality. When all this works well together,
you can feel the energy in the vineyard!
Stan Kadota
The
earth and the soil that the vines inhabit are the basis for
our wines, bringing not only nutrition to the vines but an
individuality to each bottling. We are fortunate to have Stan
Kadota, undoubtedly the most highly-respected soil consultant
in the region, as an integral part of our farming team. As
a result of his advice, our vineyards have never looked more
vibrant, exuding a sense of excitement and energy. As you
read Stan’s philosophy on farming, you will understand
better why each of our wines speaks so much of its own unique
sense of place.
Good agriculture is holistic agriculture
combining the best of modalities and techniques with the goal
of producing the highest nutritional quality crop possible.
It is only through a holistic approach that this goal can
be reached, addressing equally the physical, chemical and
biological aspects of farming. Balance is the key. Given the
above, then by default the farming practices will be ecologically
sound, safe and clean.
Agriculture and farming are not “natural”
events. Getting your food naturally is actually foraging.
This is how the Native Americans lived, by foraging and following
the food. They lived and died according to how bountiful the
land and the season was to them. The food, and their health
both physically and spiritually was in tune with the land.
In bountiful times they thrived, prospered and were naturally
healthy. In lean times they starved, were desperate and died
early. It is not possible for our population to exist as foragers
today on this basis. Agriculture was a great engineering invention
and we owe our existence and prosperity to this basic fact
of life. The best agriculture is an agriculture that works
in concert with nature rather than trying to overpower or
fool nature. The past 75 years of heavy synthetic chemistry
and toxic pesticides are recent examples of the results of
trying to control nature. Genetically manipulated organisms
are the new attempt to “fool” nature. The negative
effects of the toxic chemical era are now evident. We can
only hope that the man-made manipulated life forms are less
damaging than early evidence shows them to be. The alternative
to both of these agri-business plans is holistic farming.
Farming is the process of collecting energy
and directing this energy into the plants we grow then into
the food we eat. The sun, through photosynthesis is the obvious
major source of energy, though there are other energies, some
subtle and some powerful. Some of these subtle energies are
collected from throughout the cosmos that we have not fully
identified a la Rudolf Steiner and Biodynamics. Energy is
also collected by plants from nutrients in the soil and nutrients
we provide. It is commonly thought that plants “grow”
from fertilizers, but the energy concept a la Carey Reams
says plants live off of the energy generated from the interaction
of various “fertilizers”. Then there is the energy
created by the soil microbial system that create compounds
and substances from raw organic matter and minerals. Agriculture
is beginning to recognize the significant role of electricity
in agriculture, as is medical science, in plant growth. Only
a holistic approach to agriculture will consider and collect
these many forms of energy for incorporation into food.
When we conscientiously practice good agriculture
we give "permission to life" as my mentor C.J. Fenzau
would say. When you have a healthy, vibrant field you can
feel the energy as soon as you walk in. In the wine business
it would be a goal to transfer this living energy to the wine.
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